← Back to all posts

Madrid, a Total Solar Eclipse at Sunset, and the Two Apartments I'd Send You To

By Chandru Swaminathan, CVA Realty Group · August 14, 2026

Madrid rewards people who stay in the middle of it. The city is dense, walkable, and best experienced on foot, so the address you book matters more here than in a lot of places. Booking blind off a listing site is a gamble: the photos are staged, the pin on the map means nothing until you know the neighborhood, and "5 minutes from everything" can quietly mean forty. On my Spain trip I stayed in two different apartments in central Madrid, and both were good enough that I want to pass them along the way I would to a client, with the honest reasons and the trade-offs.

When I judge a place, I care less about the finishes in the photos and more about the things that decide how a trip actually feels: how central it really is, how safe the street is at night, which way the windows face, whether there is a real balcony, and whether you get a sunrise or a sunset view. Traveling with family raises the bar again: enough bedrooms that each kid gets a room of their own, a kitchen you can actually cook in, and laundry on site. Both of these apartments cleared that bar, and each came with a view I would happily fly back for.

Why Two Apartments? A Once-in-a-Lifetime Chase

The honest answer is that the second stay was not planned. Midway through the trip we realized our dates lined up with something rare: the total solar eclipse of August 12, 2026, the first to cross mainland Spain in more than a hundred years. Because Spain sits at the very end of the path of totality, the eclipse happened with the sun low on the horizon, minutes before sunset. That is a combination most people never get to see: a total eclipse and a sunset in the same few minutes.

There was a catch. Near sunset the sun is close to the horizon, so haze and low cloud can ruin the view. The smart move was to get to high ground with a clean western horizon. So we did the least-vacation thing imaginable: we jumped in a car and drove north out of Madrid, hunting for the right spot, and found it in the hills near Trijueque, in Guadalajara, up around a thousand meters, with clear skies and an unobstructed horizon.

The total solar eclipse near Trijueque, Spain: the sun almost fully covered by the moon, glowing as a bright ring in a dusky sky, with a crowd of onlookers silhouetted
Totality, near Trijueque, north of Madrid. This is a direct photo, not shot through solar glasses. During the roughly two minutes the sun is completely covered, it is safe to look with the naked eye; that is the only moment in an eclipse when it is.

And it delivered. For the brief window of totality the sky went dark, the temperature dropped, and the sun became a black disc ringed with fire. Then, as the moon slid off, the partially covered sun sank toward the horizon, deep red through the sunset air.

The partially eclipsed sun glowing deep red low over the Castilian hills at sunset, a crescent shape with a bite taken out, watchers silhouetted in the fields
Eclipse and sunset at once, the partially covered sun setting red over the Castilian plains. Also a direct photo, not through solar glasses. This was only possible because it happened at sunset: the low sun, dimmed and reddened by the thick horizon air, was faint enough to watch directly. Normally, the instant totality ends you must put your eclipse glasses back on. Do not view a partial eclipse with the naked eye unless the sun is truly this dim at the horizon.

That detour is why we ended up in two apartments. It was worth every unplanned mile.

Apartment One: A Top-Floor Penthouse Over Plaza de España

The first was a 4-bedroom, 2-bath top-floor penthouse looking straight out over Plaza de España, at the very end of Gran Vía.

Penthouse living room with a curved bay of tall balcony windows framing the Plaza de España view, modern sofa and chandelier
The living room. A curved bay of floor-to-ceiling windows opens onto the balcony, so the plaza is part of the room.
Morning coffee on the penthouse balcony overlooking Plaza de España and Gran Vía at golden hour
Morning coffee on the balcony, Plaza de España and the Cervantes monument below. This was the daily ritual.

If you do not know Madrid yet, this is a spectacular place to base yourself. Gran Vía is the city's buzziest shopping-and-theatre corridor, and Plaza de España sits right at the head of it. Step out of the door and in one direction you have the Royal Palace and the elegant Sabatini Gardens (one of the best sunset spots in the city), the Temple of Debod, and the green sweep down toward Madrid Río. Turn the other way and Gran Vía pulls you back into the heart of the action. It is the kind of location where you can do a full loop of major sights on foot and be back for a siesta before the afternoon heat peaks.

Being on the top floor is the whole point here. The views run out over the plaza and the city skyline, and at night the Cervantes monument and the plaza light up below you.

Looking out through two open balcony windows of the penthouse onto the illuminated Cervantes monument and Plaza de España at night
Throw open the balcony doors at night and the lit monument is right there, framed between the windows.
Plaza de España lit up at night, seen from the penthouse, with the Cervantes monument and Gran Vía buildings
The full plaza after dark. A hotel a few blocks away cannot give you this.

Apartment Two: Straight Down Onto Plaza Mayor

The second apartment was on a high floor directly over Plaza Mayor, close enough that the 400-year-old arcaded square filled the windows.

Bright apartment living room with chandeliers and tall windows opening onto Plaza Mayor
The living room. Two chandeliers, tall balcony windows, and Plaza Mayor filling the frame.

Plaza Mayor is the heart of old Habsburg Madrid, first laid out over four hundred years ago and still the center of gravity for the historic core. From here you are a few minutes' walk from Puerta del Sol, the literal center of Spain; the Mercado de San Miguel for tapas; the Royal Palace; and the tangle of lanes that make up the oldest part of the city. You do not need a map, and you rarely need a taxi. You just walk out and you are already somewhere worth being.

There is a bonus to being right on top of the square: it is Madrid's festive stage. Come Christmas, Plaza Mayor hosts the city's most famous holiday market, lit up with stalls of Nativity figures and decorations from late November through New Year. In May, during the San Isidro festivities for the city's patron saint, the plaza fills with traditional music and couples dancing the chotis. Concerts and open-air events land here throughout the year. If your trip happens to line up with one of those, you are not fighting the crowds to get a spot; you are watching it unfold from your own window.

The view is the kind of thing that photographs do not quite prepare you for. By day the square is all warm red arcades, café umbrellas, and the equestrian statue in the middle.

Plaza Mayor by day seen from the apartment, red arcaded buildings, spires, café umbrellas, and the central statue
Plaza Mayor by day, from the window. The whole square, essentially to yourself in the early morning.

And here is the perk no hotel across town can match: early in the morning and late at night, you open the balcony doors and the square is almost yours, before and after the crowds.

Plaza Mayor lit up at night, seen through the open balcony doors of the apartment
Plaza Mayor at night, straight through the balcony doors. Worth staying up for.

The Thread Between Both: Central Wins

If there is one takeaway, it is the same thing I tell buyers at home: a great location out-earns any single feature. Both apartments proved it. Because each was truly central, most days we simply walked, and Madrid unfolded on foot. When we did want a ride, taxis were plentiful, instant to flag, and inexpensive, so there was none of that corner-standing while an app searches for a driver.

They got the boring essentials right, too, and in August that matters: air conditioning that actually kept up with the heat, a proper kitchen, a washer and dryer, and cafés and restaurants a floor or two below. With kids in tow, those unglamorous details are what quietly decide whether a week feels easy or exhausting.

Why a Broker Bothers Writing About Where He Stayed

Here is the honest reason. Judging a place, a street, a view, the difference between a good address and one that just sounds good, is the same skill I use every day for clients back home. My whole job is reading location, and that instinct does not clock out when I cross a border. So when I travel, I end up scouting apartments the way I would scout a listing.

That is why I would rather hand a client a real recommendation than watch them roll the dice on a listing site. There is no commission in it and no catch. Some travelers genuinely enjoy piecing a trip together themselves, and more power to them. Others would rather hear "stay here, this is exactly why, and here is the one thing to watch," from someone who has already slept there. If you are the second kind, that is what this is.

And there is a layer beyond the vacation. I am always watching for the right investment, anywhere in the world, and a well-located apartment over a square like Plaza Mayor or Plaza de España is squarely the kind of thing I would buy at the right number.

What makes Spain especially interesting right now is the regulatory shift, and it cuts in two directions. Short-term rental rules there are set city by city, and the big ones are all tightening. Madrid's "Plan Reside," in force since 2025, bans new tourist flats inside residential buildings in the historic center and froze new licenses; Barcelona is going further and phasing out its roughly ten thousand tourist licenses entirely by 2028. On one hand, that limits the easy Airbnb play. On the other hand, it makes an already-licensed, well-located unit meaningfully more scarce, and scarcity tends to support value. It is exactly the kind of rule change worth understanding before you buy, not after.

It is also worth knowing that eXp Realty operates in Spain, so if one of these places lands with you as an investment rather than a stay, I am not just admiring the view, I can actually help you chase it. Matching the right buyer to the right property through people I trust in the local market is what I do all week.

If Madrid is on your list and you want the details on either apartment, a read on where to stay somewhere else I have been, or a serious conversation about buying a place like this, reach out. Happy to share what I actually know.


Chandru Swaminathan is a licensed real estate broker with eXp Realty in Washington State, serving the Greater Seattle Region. Travel recommendations here are personal and informal. For any purchase outside Washington, Chandru works through eXp Realty's licensed agents in the destination market, who handle the local transaction as required by law; international real estate carries specific tax, ownership-structure, and currency considerations that require qualified local counsel. This post does not constitute travel, legal, tax, or investment advice.

Opinions expressed are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of eXp Realty.

← Back to all posts